Step 1: Clear, sweep, and inspect
Get all furniture, planters, and grill covers off. Sweep leaves and debris out of board gaps. Walk the deck and note any soft boards, popped nails, or wobbly railings — small fall fixes are way cheaper than spring repairs after winter has expanded the damage.
Step 2: Tighten loose hardware
Run a screwdriver or impact driver over all visible screws, especially in railings and stair treads. Freeze-thaw expansion will widen any gap left behind. Lag bolts where the deck attaches to the house (the ledger board) should be snug — if they're loose, the deck-to-house connection is what holds the deck up.
Step 3: Seal if you haven't this year
Pressure-treated boards should be stained or sealed every 2–3 years. Composite doesn't need it. If your boards are looking gray and unsealed going into winter, you'll lose another year of life. Apply a clear water-based sealer on a dry day above 50°F — last chance until spring.
Step 4: Plan for snow
- Don't use metal snow shovels — they gouge wood and damage composite. Plastic-edge or rubber shovels only.
- Don't use rock salt — corrosive on metal hardware and bad for wood. Calcium chloride or sand only.
- Leave a slight snow layer — scraping to bare deck is harder on the boards than leaving 1/2 inch and letting it melt.
Step 5: Cover or store furniture
Outdoor furniture left uncovered all winter is the cause of most of the rust, mildew, and frame failures we see in spring. Even a tarp helps.
